My First Week in Brazil

On January 24th, I arrived in Brazil with no itinerary, no guide book, no maps. Just 1) my backpack, 2) my usual curious mind, and 3) my usual smiling face.

I'll probably wander around South America for about three months, which is how long I think my money will last. I'll tell you more about my travel style later (it kinda freaks people out, but more than anything, it tends to inspire). For now, I just wanted to share some photos of my first week in Brazil. I'd love to go into detail about them - because holy crap, I've experienced so much and have so many stories already - but I am a firm believer that my time spent on electronic devices is time wasted from an incredible physical world of awesomeness. Something really amazing could happen to me RIGHT NOW if I stepped outside, but I'll never know because I'm writing you this blog entry.

So you better like it. Dammit.

Joking, of course! But really - I will try to blog as much as my heart can bear to be away from the real world. As much as I LOVE to share my stories and photos with you (and I really do love sharing with you), it does hurt my heart a little bit to tear myself away from this beautiful BEAUTIFUL world that I'm experiencing - in order to bury my head into a computer. I admit it: I'm not a good blogger. I'm just me...living my life...in the physical world...which I believe is precious and dear...and too often dismissed in favor of virtual nonsense.

That said, here's some virtual nonsense from me to you :) (Truth be told, it's raining in Rio de Janeiro right now, so if you're happy to be reading this post, you can thank the rain.)

Salvador was my first stop in Brazil, and the three-ish, four-ish days I thought I'd spend there turned out to be an entire week. Salvador is in the Bahia region of Brazil, and although rich in history, it's considered the poorest region of the country. "Poor region" to me usually means more character. And character is exactly what I found in Salvador.

As you'll see in the photos below, showing up in a foreign city, logistically unprepared, had its advantages and I've experienced some really cool stuff. I went from knowing NOBODY in Salvador and knowing NOTHING about the city and what it had to offer - to making new friends almost instantly and learning by word of mouth from the local people their history and what makes their city special.

I had no idea Salvador was the hub of Afro-Brazilian culture, and there was a long history of slavery here.
I had no idea the city was divided into a lower and upper city, and that they're connected by an elevator.
I had no idea the historic center of Pelourinho is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its colorful colonial Portuguese architecture (see below and you'll understand why - it is old and it is beautiful).
I had no idea I arrived in Salvador shortly after the Feast of Bonfin, which is why the church was covered in multi-colored wish ribbons (see below).
I had no idea Salvador was the home of Capoeira (the dance/martial arts practice of slaves).
I had never heard of the religion Candomblé nor known I would witness a ritual where people went into a hypnotic trance, seemingly possessed by spirits (it was way trippy!).
I had no idea I was going to attend the concert of Brazil's most beloved musician, Caetano Veloso.
I had no idea what Acarajé com Camarão was, or how delicious it was going to taste.
I had no idea that the reason I kept seeing postcards with pictures of Michael Jackson on them was because his controversial video for the song "They Don't Care About Us" was partially shot here and that the people of Salvador adore him.
I had no idea there were turtle sanctuaries in Salvador or that I'd get to see a baby sea turtle hatch out of its egg right before my eyes, *cry*! (You do remember how utterly OBSESSED I am with turtles, right?!)

I now know and understand a lot about Salvador and the Bahia region and its history. It's all thanks to the warm and wonderful people I met there, and their willingness to share with me and to spend time with me.

Thank you especially to Angelo, Rosiane and Agata.

Here are some of my photos:

SALVADOR, THE CITY

Upper city and lower city, and Lacerda Elevadora connecting the two.

Pelourinho, the historic center

A day at the beach and a sunset at Farol da Barra

COUCHSURFING

Angelo, a teacher of environmental energy and clean technology,
hosted me and a bunch of other couchsurfers at his place.
He is one of the warmest, friendliest, accommodating people I have ever met.

Angelo's neighbors were enamored by me, and came over asking if they could touch the long pretty black hair of the "Japonesa" (yours truly, although I'm actually "Vietnamita")! Soooo cute.

Salvador has a VERY active Couchsurfing community and there are ALWAYS events.
Here I am with some fellow surfers at Mercado Bar.

THE FOOD

My first taste of Queijo Coalho - freshly toasted cheese on a stick,
sprinkled with garlic sauce and oregano (holy crap, SO good!)

Açaí, almost always served frozen, is refreshing on 90 degree days with 70% humidity.

The culinary specialty of the Bahia region: Acarajé com Camarão.
Fried cornbread-type thing made of black-eyed peas, served with a paste made of shrimp and cashews. One of my favorites so far in Brazil for sure!

THE HANDCRAFTS MARKET

BONFIM CHURCH

The Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim is the most famous Catholic church in Bahia. Here I am tying a wish ribbon to the fence. Traditionally, someone ties one on your wrist, making three knots as you make a wish with each one. The wishes are supposed to come true as the knots loosen over time and the bracelet eventually falls off.

SANTO AMARO

Spent one day/night celebrating pre-carnival in this small town, just 110 km northwest of Salvador.

Caetano Veloso performed live in a rare (and free) outdoor concert

TURTLES

Projeto Tamar is a turtle sanctuary located outside the city in Praia do Forte, on the North Coast. This amazing loggerhead is twice my size.

This little baby sea turtle was born just MINUTES before I took this photo.

ITAPARICA

Just a 40-minute boat ride from the Salvador coast through the All Saints Bay lies the island of Itaparica. Although Salvador's beaches are alright, I much prefer the beaches of Itaparica.

CANDOMBLÉ

Me and the gang in white Candomble gear after witnessing our first "incorporating" ritual

The adorable Yuri and me outside his Candomblé temple

WORLD CUP 2014

Salvador is one of 12 cities that will host the World Cup next year when it comes to Brazil. Here's the city's football (soccer) stadium in construction, with 500 days left til the World Cup.

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And that was only my first week. I'm just gettin' started! I've since traveled south to paradise, also known as Trancoso, and am now awaiting the festivities of Carnival in Rio de Janeiro! There's much more to come. Perhaps I'll catch you up when it rains again :)

Labels: Acaraje, Backpacking South America, Bahia, Bonfim Church, brazil, Candomble, Pelourinho, Salvador, Santo Amaro, South America